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Sept. 23, 1998 - Bill Cooper

01:30:31

Food Storage – Doyel #1

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Time	Text
	The End.
	I'm William Cooper.
	And I'm Doyle Shamry.
	You're listening to Hour of Time.
	You're listening on WBCQ Monticello, Maine, USA.
	All righty.
	First off this evening, we'd like to hear Pooh say the Pledge of Allegiance.
	I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America, and to the republic for which it stands, one nation, under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all.
	Alright.
	Good job, Boo.
	Okay.
	Okay, you ready to play your song?
	Yeah.
	Alright.
	This evening, we have a very special music presentation by Pooh Cooper.
	She's going to play the harmonica for you.
	Go ahead.
	It's called Oh Susanna.
	Alright. Woo!
	Alright. Woo!
	Woo!
	Yay.
	Woo!
	Yay!
	Alright!
	Thank you!
	Alright!
	Good job!
	Go eat dinner!
	Alright!
	I'll say go eat dinner!
	Let's go!
	Okay!
	This evening folks, the first thing I'd like to cover is the products which we have to cover from the Hour of the Time.
	The books and videos and audio tapes.
	The first I'd like to cover is Behold a Pale Horse.
	This is a book written by William Cooper.
	This book is $30, it's 500 pages, over 500 pages of well-documented information.
	You can't do that, you're on here.
	Listen, just go ahead and talk, do your regular thing, and then toward the end when you go to do the products, you gotta go off the air with 101.1.
	No commercials, okay?
	Folks, Doyle is just learning how to do this, and the only way to do it is to jump in and do it.
	And if he's really going to be a part of the broadcast and, you know, feel confident, then he's got to jump in the water.
	And tonight, he's jumping in the water, and I'm leaving.
	Bye.
	Thanks.
	Also, no dead air time.
	No dead air time.
	Alright.
	Okay.
	anyway first off I'd like to cover if any of you would like to
	contact the hour of the time please contact us at the hour of the time care of
	of 101.1 FM P.O. Box 940 Eager, EAGAR, Arizona 85925.
	Now later on we're going to do a call in section.
	Please don't call until we say we're going to call, do the call in, because we aren't
	going to answer anyway.
	And that number is 520-333-4578.
	I'll repeat, the call in line when we announce it is 520-333-4578.
	I'll repeat the call in line when we announce it is 520-333-4578.
	Okay, tonight we'd like to cover a few various topics.
	We're going to start with some radio topics, such as antenna arrangement, receiving shortwave broadcast, and a few of the, I guess, scientific so-called principles behind it.
	And then next we're going to go into various things among food and water storage.
	Let's start off with the radio first.
	Okay.
	Shortwave listeners, you have a You have a unique arena here.
	It goes worldwide.
	But the thing is that when shortwave is originally radiated from the station, it goes to the ionosphere and bounces back.
	So something you have to understand is that if you're really, really close, you may be caught in the skip.
	And actually anywhere along the frequency path, you can be caught in the skip.
	Okay?
	So one way to get around this is with a good shortwave antenna.
	The best antenna that I know of, as far as arrangement, is a dipole antenna.
	Okay?
	Now, this antenna, the reason it's called dipole, is essentially you set up two legs.
	Two legs of wire.
	And each leg goes into a central lead end, which goes into your source, your receiver.
	And these legs pick up the frequency better than, let's say, just a piece of copper wire strung out in the yard or between two trees or something.
	So what everybody needs to do is get a piece of paper, a pen, because I'm going to be describing this stuff.
	If you can write it down and draw it, I'll describe it the best I can.
	It'll help you a lot down the road listening to shortwave.
	We're going to try to describe some of the properties behind shortwave, why it does what it does, why the antenna works, and how to set it up in the most optimum fashion that I know of.
	Okay?
	Now first off, let's start with antennas.
	Your best, your best way to receive shortwave broadcasts is bare copper wire.
	Don't use insulated wire, it blocks the signal.
	Use bare copper wire.
	Okay?
	One thing you need to think of is your overall components have to have insulators.
	Because your wire that picks up your frequency, your long wire antenna, as it's called, has to be insulated from the source where you hook it to.
	You can't nail the wire right to a wall or to a tree.
	You have to have insulators.
	So you need insulators on the ends.
	You need insulators back right before your feed-in line to your radio.
	And that's the best case scenario, depending on the weather conditions you live in, the type of terrain, or what you happen to live in.
	You know, a condominium complex, or townhouses where you may not have all the room you want in the world, or trees to spring water out in.
	You have to think about these things, okay?
	So, you need two insulators on the ends.
	Two insulators backed by your source going to your feed line.
	And then now we're going to, now I'm going to explain exactly how to lay it out.
	Now your best way is start out with pure copper wire for your receiving source.
	That's your actual antenna.
	That's not your feed end line.
	There's a difference there.
	Now, if you want to start out with a good, just general, all band receiving antenna, start out with 75 to 100 feet of pure copper wire, uninsulated.
	Okay, now what you need to do next is to make a dipole antenna.
	What you need to do is imagine just a big V. Draw a big V on a piece of paper.
	Memorize this, whatever you want to do.
	Draw a big V. Okay, once you have your V of your dipole antenna, that's why it's dipole.
	You have two poles receiving the waves.
	Okay.
	What you would do, is at each end of your wire, you're going to install an insulator.
	Each end of your bare copper wire, install an insulator, and that's going to terminate the length of the wire.
	At that point, in which you take the copper wire, wrap it around the insulator, to finish off the antenna, your overall length is done.
	So if you want to have 75 foot of wire, and you've got to wrap it around the insulator, don't cut your wire to 75 foot.
	It's not going to work.
	Okay, if you have to have 75 feet, you need to allow a little extra to wrap around the insulators on the end.
	Okay, so when you bring the wire up, wrap it around your insulator, and you can attach that to a wall, because now it's insulated, it's a standoff fashion, right to a wall, that you have a house, you can run rope from the insulator, up to a tree, a tall pole, whatever you like.
	Okay?
	Now, you have each end insulated.
	Now there's two formats essentially of shortwave antennas.
	These are long wire straight antennas and dipole.
	The long wire straight antenna is just the copper wire pulled out in a straight fashion and literally just ran a straight line between two long distances.
	Example, the edge of your house coming into your receiver and way out to a tree in the back 40 or whatever you have.
	The next door neighbor's house if you have the permission.
	Or a long pole which you install, or there's a dipole.
	Now I'd like to emphasize the dipole tonight because you will get the best reception with that.
	Okay, so in that fashion, you're going to build a V with that baricopper wire.
	There's a few characteristics here which you want to pay special attention to.
	First off, when you make your V, the bottom of the V, the point, the apex, the venus, whatever you want to call the V, It has to be where your lead wire comes into.
	So for example, if you're going to have 70 foot of wire, and you're going to make a dipole antenna, the lead end has to be dead on in the middle, which will be the point of your V, and that will be 35 feet.
	So take the distance in half.
	If you're going to have 60 foot of wire, the middle is 30 foot, that's where the bottom of your V is going to be, that's where your lead end wire is going to start, and run into your receiver.
	When you arrange this V antenna, you need to, for optimum signal reception, you want to arrange it at a 60 degree included angle.
	That means inside the V, 60 degrees.
	So you can use a protractor or whatever you have on hand.
	If you just can't figure out how to do this, it doesn't mean anything, just get a kid's little 180 degree protractor, draw out a big 60 degree cone on a piece of newspaper, cut it out, And along that cone is how you set your wire out.
	It's real simple.
	Okay?
	So now at the dead middle is your angle.
	60 degrees out and then your length, each leg has to be equal to get optimum reception.
	Now for 7.415, it has to be 63.1 feet.
	63.1 feet is the optimum length for reception for 7.415.
	63.1 feet is the all tune length for reception for 7.415.
	But bear in mind, if you trim your wire to that length, you're going to cut out some
	of the higher band frequency, like 120 meter band and what not.
	.
	So, if you want a good, all around, all band antenna, stick to 75-80 feet in that area there.
	Okay.
	Now, you need to do a little pre-planning here.
	If you plan on putting this on the end of your house, between two trees, whatever arrangement you want to do, just remember, you've got a 60 degree angle, Outside and then you got to run these at 35 37 and a half feet roughly To the end of the insulators.
	You need a lot of room to do this Don't expect to get 75 foot of wire insulators and fit this between two suburban houses in San Francisco It's not going to happen.
	Okay, you need to allow for room and if you don't have the room We're going to cover that in a few minutes how to get around that problem Once you insulate the ends, you have your V arranged, 60 degree included angle.
	30 degrees from the center line of each leg.
	They're both at about 35-37.5 feet.
	As far as total length of copper wire.
	At that point, you start your lead-in wire.
	That is the base of the V. There you want to use insulated wire.
	Now when you take your insulated wire, have enough distance to get all the way from the antenna into your receiver.
	That may be right outside the room.
	We're going to run it through the window, drill a hole in the wall, whatever.
	I don't know what you're going to do.
	But make sure you have enough because you don't want to be attaching this wire together because you're going to lose signal strength if you do that.
	Okay, at this point, you want to strip the end of the wire.
	Your lead-in wire is insulated.
	That's it.
	So it doesn't fight the antenna as far as signal and whatnot.
	If you have an uninsulated lead-in wire, Fighting your antenna which is uninsulated.
	They're both going to be fighting to pick up signal.
	And all the calculations you did and distances and length of the wire is going to be all thrown out the window.
	Because you're going to be adding all that extra length of wire to the total calculation.
	And you might as well not have done any of the work at all.
	So your actual antenna, you want bare copper wire or lead and water insulated.
	At the bottom of that V, strip your lead-in wire, just enough to make the connection.
	If you want the best connection, solder it.
	Soldering something like this is very easy, don't be scared of it.
	All you're going to do is melt the solder on the wire, and wrap it up with electrical tape.
	If you cannot get hold of a soldering iron, or just feel that you cannot do it, wrap the wire around there in a very tight connection, wrap it up with electrical tape very securely, keep out the moisture, and there's your connection to your antenna.
	The next step is you need to run your insulated wire to your receiver.
	To do this, you're going to want it not stapled directly to a wall or anything because you're going to pick up interference if you do that.
	The interference you pick up is from the nail or the staple around the wire, clamping it against the wall.
	Touch the wall in the wintertime or whatever time, when it rains or snows in your area.
	Sometimes we get rains in the spring or the summer, depending on where you live.
	We're going to try to ground that out.
	Now it's insulated, I know that, but it's going to interfere with the signal.
	So one thing you want to do is make sure you use one or two insulators off the wall for your lead-in wire.
	Now at this point, if you wrap your lead-in wire around the insulator just to keep it taut, that's okay.
	It's not competing with the antenna because it's insulated.
	It's not bare copper.
	So you can do that.
	Punch a couple insulators into the wall.
	You can get these from feed stores, hardware stores, electrical supply warehouses.
	They basically look like a cylinder with three or four ribs around them.
	Kind of a coffee can shape with a hole through the middle.
	That's where you drive the nail through.
	And you have this plastic cylindrical body standing off the wall or whatever you attach it to.
	And that way the wire is not directly touching it.
	You bring your lead-in wire around these insulators.
	You bring it in, bring it in, and when you run it through your wall, there's something to think about here.
	Don't just go punching a hole in your wall, bringing your lead-in wire, thinking it's going to be weatherproof.
	It's not.
	If you do that, your outside wall, the interior, i.e.
	your 2x4s and whatnot, your insulation, And your inside, your sheetrock or whatever you might have, are going to get wet if you do not fill this.
	So you want to get a good clear silicone sealant, just like rubber cement in the tube, industrial rubber cement.
	Rubber silicone, Hard As Nails is a brand that's really good stuff.
	And fill that hole up.
	You only need a hole big enough to get the wire through.
	So don't go knocking a hole in the side of your house with a sledgehammer.
	It's just a little teeny hole.
	Drill it through.
	Bring it into the room where you want to listen to the radio most of the time.
	Like your living room or your study or wherever that might be.
	After you run that wire in, on the inside of the wall, go ahead and fasten it in some fashion that it's not going to pull in and out and just break all the chilling you just did.
	And it's not going to yank the radio off your shelf or you pulling the radio is not going to pull the wire off the antenna on the other end.
	This can be done through insulated tacks, nails.
	You can tape it to the wall if you want.
	I don't suggest that.
	It's probably not going to hold up very long.
	They make insulated nails just for this purpose.
	They have a cardboard or rubber insulation on them.
	You drive them in right over the wire.
	They completely insulate them.
	It won't cut through the insulation of the wire and break it and ruin your signal.
	This is your lead-in wire.
	So at this point, you only have two more things to do.
	The lead-in wire will go to your antenna in.
	Now some radios will say antenna in, or they'll say AM external antenna.
	Okay?
	Two things to look for.
	AM external antenna.
	Antenna in.
	At that point, you get the proper connector.
	It may be an eighth inch mono plug.
	It may be an eye fastener.
	That depends on the model and type of rig you have, the age of it.
	Some of them are just used spade connectors which look just like the letter U and you just loosen the screw, put it underneath there and tighten it up and there's your connection.
	The second component you have to have right now is a good ground.
	If you're going to hook up Your radio to an external antenna, you want to have a good ground.
	Okay, now most home shortwave receiver units have a specific screw that says ground right on it and will usually be designated as GND.
	Sometimes they coat the screw in a green colored paint, epoxy, that's just to help out the average person.
	It's GND, look for ground.
	What you're going to want to do is run that same wire through that hole that you drilled in your wall or through your window, wherever you passed your antenna through, and run it through a grounding rod.
	Now, we covered grounding rods the first night.
	I want to cover it again because this is a very important part of the whole play with external antennas, you know, real good reception and protecting your equipment.
	The ground protects static buildup.
	It actually doesn't protect the static buildup.
	It protects your equipment from static buildup, which will ruin the electronics in it.
	Okay, now most radios that people are using out there are some kind of integrated circuit transistor type radio.
	If you have an old tube radio, which is probably the best, that's all there is to it.
	You don't have to worry about it as much, but you still need to ground it.
	But the newer radios, I'm talking anything from the 60's up, integrated circuits, transistor radios, you have to have a good ground if you have an external antenna.
	This is why.
	If you have storms coming your way, lightning storms, full blown thunder and lightning, or just the winter season in general and you're wanting to listen to your radio, your antenna is a big giant magnet for static electricity.
	And what that'll do is it'll build up static levels and keep building it up.
	And eventually the electricity wants to go somewhere.
	Now the electricity is going to go to the path of least resistance, which means it's either going to go dissipate in the air or it's going to go to your radio and hurt it if it's not grounded properly.
	Okay?
	So when you ground your radio, you want to have a pure copper rod.
	Now you can get pure copper grounding rods and they're not a big deal.
	You just go into an electronic shop like Radio Shack and say, hey I need a grounding rod, a pure copper grounding rod.
	They have them in 2 foot, 4 foot, 8 foot lengths.
	I would not suggest buying an 8 foot rod because it's really tall.
	It's going to be hard to put in the dirt.
	Buy a 4 foot rod.
	It's a good workable height for most people.
	You don't need a lot of them.
	You want to make sure it's pure copper.
	Now some of your hardware stores Generally not the electronic stores, although you may want to check, but your hardware stores will sell you a copper clad grounding rod.
	Copper clad is not as good.
	You might as well just melt a bunch of pennies together and stuff them in the dirt, because it's essentially nickel and aluminum on the core, copper dipped on the outside.
	It's mainly for looks.
	It doesn't offer any better conductivity than a coke can buried in the ground, essentially.
	It just is for looks and doesn't corrode on the outside.
	Look for pure copper grounding rods.
	They don't cost much.
	An eight footer from, or a four footer, excuse me, pure copper grounding rod from Radio Shack will run you about seven, eight bucks.
	If you, if you want off home protection, put in two of them.
	Eight foot of grounded rod.
	Which means rod underneath the earth is really good for any equipment that's going to be for essentially non-industrial use.
	If you're getting the giant receivers and stuff, you're going to need more.
	Or the high voltage arena.
	We're not dealing with that.
	We're dealing with the household shortwave receiver unit.
	Eight foot is optimum.
	Four foot is more than likely going to be plenty.
	But if you want optimum protection, driving eight foot of grounding rod underneath the dirt okay.
	Why I say that is if you have very rocky soil and you buy a four foot rod and you start pounding it in and it gets about 18 inches in and bends in half and you just say oh well I'm just going to hook the wire right here it's okay I got a four foot rod well you've only got 18 inches underneath the dirt okay so you don't have that much protection.
	If you want to get it really good, you need four foot to eight foot.
	Eight foot being optimum.
	And the dirt.
	Undisturbed soil.
	Don't put it in freshly dug up soil.
	I know it'll be easier to drive in, but you're not going to get the protection for your circuitry from it.
	Because the soil is not homogeneous per se.
	It's not nice and compact.
	It's not all bonded together.
	That's why I say homogeneous.
	You want good solid soil to have in the stands.
	Now if you cannot, absolutely cannot put in grounding rods because of where you live, or the type of soil you have, or what not, there's a couple alternatives.
	You can hook your grounding wire to a cold water pipe.
	Do not hook it to hot water.
	Hook it to a cold water pipe.
	If you hook it to a pipe running from your hot water heater, you're going to get nothing at all.
	Okay.
	Hook it to either a cold water pot coming into the house, the condominium, whatever you happen to live in.
	Or, the other alternative is if you just cannot dig in your soil, but you have the opportunity to put in a rod.
	There's one other alternative, the mining society.
	It's a group of people that watch out for safety of miners and whatnot.
	It's like OSHA.
	It's equivalent to OSHA for miners.
	People that dig up coal and stuff all day.
	Really bad problem with explosions underground.
	Okay?
	Because the gases escape from the earth.
	So they ground almost all of their equipment they're using.
	Even hand tools.
	What you need to do here.
	They have a method which works quite well.
	You can dig a trench.
	You can dig a four foot trench.
	And set the grounding rod down in it.
	In case you can only get a foot deep in your area.
	Dig a four foot long trench.
	Lay the whole grounding rod in there.
	Connect it to your ground wire.
	Bury it back.
	Pack it really good.
	Wet it down.
	Make the soil really solid.
	And you'll have a decent ground.
	I'm going to say decent, not good.
	This is going to protect your equipment.
	It's going to make sure your house doesn't burn down.
	You're not going to attract lightning.
	It doesn't mean you're going to be immune from it, but you're not going to attract it, which you can do if you do your antenna wrong.
	And this is a method which actually is a lot of the county and your city ordinances have allowed because of the gentle population in certain areas of the country.
	An example, LA and whatnot.
	They know that you can't just go out and start digging up your landlord's townhouse lawn.
	So you need to work around it.
	That's why you use a cold water pipe, your fresh water coming into your house, your condominium, or just dig a small trench.
	Lay your copper pipe in there, bury it, and you're good to go.
	Okay.
	Later on, when we do the call-in time, if anybody has any questions on this as far as what type of insulators, size of wire, distances, I live here, I don't know what you mean, whatever, you can ask these questions.
	When I announce the call-in time, you can call in and find out these things.
	If not, you can write us, and we'll answer it as fully as we can.
	Okay.
	Next thing I'd like to cover is just some kind of general properties around communication.
	your basic radio technology I guess we'll call it.
	Many of you out there may already know this material.
	I don't know.
	So we want to cover it because the idea of this show is that everybody learns something.
	Every time a caller calls us, we get a call during the day, a letter, we learn something, and hopefully you learn something from us every day.
	I want to cover two of the main properties of radio waves.
	You have two things, amplitude and wavelength.
	Okay?
	Your amplitude is, imagine the radio wave comes out like a big ocean wave.
	It goes up and down like a roller coaster, a nice clean arc, very consistent.
	Theoretically, you have two things here in your amplitude.
	You have the crest.
	The crest is your highest point of your wave.
	That is where it goes up.
	And when it dips back down, that is called the trough.
	Okay?
	That is your amplitude.
	And that's why, like an AM, you hear it called amplitude modulation.
	Okay?
	That's where they got it from.
	Because that's the amplitude of the wave.
	Your next thing is wavelength.
	The wavelength of a radio wave is the distance between the crest of the wave.
	A short wavelength is a radio wave with a short distance between the wave crest.
	And, obviously, a long wavelength is a radio wave with a long distance between the crest.
	That is, every time it goes up and down to oscillate like a roller coaster, up and down, the distance between each peak is your wavelength.
	Okay?
	Your frequency, frequency like we tell you to tune into 101.1 FM or 7.415 MHz.
	Frequency is simply the number of complete waves which occur in one second.
	That's all it is.
	A higher frequency radio wave, that essentially is just a radio wave with a shorter wavelength
	because you've got more waves in one second because it's shorter distance, it can fit
	more in there, it goes faster.
	.
	Then a lower wavelength, which is a very long space between the ups and downs, and usually not as, well, not usually, it doesn't have as much distance.
	You'll get more skip possibly out of it, which is an AM and short wave.
	You don't have the pure driving power like FM, which is way up on the band.
	It's very tight, but you're limited to distance because it's just pure power.
	When the power runs out or you have a big obstacle, it stops.
	Your lower ones, they bounce a lot farther, a lot wider wavelength.
	What happens there is when it's transmitted from your antenna, your transmitter station, Whatever it might be.
	It essentially goes out in circular waves.
	Like a big donut.
	Just upright.
	And what this does is when it hits the atmosphere, it comes back down at 90 degrees.
	And that's why when you say, uh, you'll hear us tell certain people, or you may have heard it before, or you may tell people that, well, you're in a skip.
	That's because it goes up, bounces back down, and someone in between there that isn't in The heavy area is in the skip area.
	That's why they need a better, or just a better antenna than someone that's at a really good location to receive it.
	A station like WBCQ, they've got a really good frequency, a strong transmitter, a really good antenna.
	The sound is really good all over.
	Okay?
	But there are pockets which are dead.
	And that's generally because of, in general, it's referred to as propagation.
	Okay, the propagation.
	That, you know, that's just how good the radio wave is sent out, how good it's received.
	Those are affected by either skip, like you're too close to the station, it's going right over you, or you're in one of the dead pockets, as it might be called.
	I don't know the technical term for that pocket once it leaves the initial transmitter, but if you're in one of those, or bad weather, especially lightning storms, Okay, you're going to have a hard time picking up shortwave.
	And that's where you compensate with a good antenna.
	Okay?
	Okay, now, your lower wavelengths, and when I say lower, I mean lower and higher frequencies, they're measured in kilohertz and megahertz.
	And that, uh, that basically is just a, uh, or it is, it isn't basically, it's thousands of cycles per second.
	And your very high frequency waves, like the shortwave 7.415 megahertz, relate to millions of cycles per second.
	That's exactly what it is.
	Megahertz is millions of cycles per second.
	Okay?
	AM band is essentially a medium frequency.
	It starts at 540 kilohertz.
	It increases in frequency up to 1600 kHz.
	Basically, if you want to convert kHz to MHz, just take your number and its three decimal spots.
	For example, AM band is at 1600 kilohertz.
	If you want to convert that to megahertz, it's 1.6.
	It's a thousand times less, essentially, because a megahertz is a thousand times faster.
	So if you have a frequency like 7.415 MHz and you want to convert to kHz, it's 7,415 kHz.
	Really, you just move a decimal spot three places.
	Just remember, kilohertz is the lowest, it's the lower term as far as the denominator goes,
	so it needs to be the higher number, 7,415 compared to 7.415 megahertz.
	Some shortwave listeners may be wondering why they hear different people say frequency
	or meter.
	Essentially, that's just the same thing.
	It's two different schools of thought.
	Frequency is, well, it's the same thing.
	It's just really two different people talking on the same issue.
	They're just on the same sheet of music.
	Like a ham operator will say, I'm on this meter.
	Okay?
	It's the same thing.
	It's just a band of frequencies, which, uh, well, basically it's like one person giving something in length of inches and one person giving a, uh, a distance in length of miles.
	That's all it is.
	If you want to convert, uh, frequencies in megahertz to meter band, all it is is 300 divided by the meter.
	Equals the frequency.
	So if they say I'm on 100 meter.
	I'm just doing this.
	Simple math.
	The frequency megahertz would be 3.
	Real simple.
	Another good example is you take the 300 divided by the 400 meter band.
	You get 7.5 megahertz.
	That's how it is.
	The reason we want to cover such topics is because we hear from a lot of people About how well they pick up signals in shortwave in years past or now.
	I don't pick it up very well.
	I got a lot of static, a lot of up and down modulation, like the signals moving or shifting back and forth.
	If you understand some of these simple terms, your amplitude, your wavelength, how to set up a good antenna, you can get around all that.
	If you have a good antenna, it doesn't matter.
	About your receiver, really, as long as it works, and it's a halfway well-made shortwave receiver, you will hear shortwave quite well with the right antenna arrangement.
	Okay?
	So now the next thing I'd like to cover tonight... Last couple days I've got a few calls Actually a lot of inquiries about this mainstay food that we're selling.
	I want to cover this in detail and give the pros and cons of this essentially food ration and give some of the breakdown of it.
	What it is, how it's made, what it's comprised of.
	Okay?
	So what I'd like to do here is first off I'll start out with the mainstay food ration.
	Essentially it's a bar with a very high mineral and vitamin content.
	It's very easy to consume.
	It's non-thirst provoking.
	It's packaged in a very strong foil type metalized package.
	It's vacuum packed.
	It's meant to withstand a lot of beating, a lot of abuse.
	It doesn't allow air and sunlight to permeate it.
	It's not, you know, it's not, it doesn't work with osmosis like cheesecloth or something just to give you an exaggerated example.
	It is a, imagine a square broken into 9 little cubes.
	Equals 5 cubes.
	Okay?
	The whole block is 3600 calories.
	When I say that I mean the whole square.
	Each little cube is 400.
	Okay, so you have three rows.
	It's a tic-tac-toe.
	Nine cubes.
	Each cube is 400 calories.
	That's 3,600 calories in the total package.
	Essentially, how you would use this is you would take a row per day.
	Three cubes a day, three meals a day, three rows.
	That's why we can say that it's three days ration or food substance for any situation.
	Whether you're just out hiking and want a snack or You're in a disaster or wrecked along the side of the road.
	You're broke down.
	So each cube represents a meal.
	Now each one of these cubes is equal to 400 calories.
	760 grams.
	That's 400 calories.
	And it's also referred to as a bar.
	Essentially, if you ate one of those cubes, you'd be eating about six to eight of those so-called energy bars, the health bars that you see in stores.
	These granola things that this vitamin, that vitamin, athletes and whatnot like to take.
	Just one little cube is equal to all that.
	Now, one thing I want everybody to keep in mind here is that this isn't meant to just live on every day.
	It's not that you can't.
	Get a little boring after a while.
	Okay, but the purpose of this food is power outages, roadside emergencies, you're stranded, you're out hiking and hunting, you don't want to carry a bunch of things like sandwiches and whatnot that can go bad or whatnot.
	That's the purpose of this food.
	It's really good stuff.
	It's got a lemony vanilla flavor, kind of like a pound cake.
	It's softish, crumbles, and it's got a very high mineral content and when I say that minerals and vitamins
	is really what I mean It's the percentages I'm going to give you are based on the
	USDA Relative values for vitamins and minerals and actually
	exceeds exceeds that USDA's standards for one day's content
	Okay?
	Now some of the major things like protein, calcium, vitamin B. Vitamin B for example, it's got 90% in one cube of your daily necessary allowance.
	Okay?
	90% in one cube.
	So you're actually exceeding your total daily necessity of vitamin B in one of these because you take three a day.
	Protein.
	It's got three grams per bar.
	To give you an example, that would take one and a half slices of whole wheat bread to equal the amount of protein this one mill, one cube has in it.
	Calcium, 50% of your daily allowance.
	It would take two glasses of whole milk or four ounces of cheese to get the same amount
	of calcium as in one of these.
	And while I'm on this subject, I'd like to talk about a couple of the other options to
	food of this type.
	Uh...
	Really, the main category is Retort.
	Retort.
	R-E-T-O-R-T.
	Funny sounding word.
	That essentially means packaged food.
	It's packaged.
	Cooked.
	Cooked.
	And then it's meant to be used later as it is.
	You don't need to cook it again.
	It can be eaten cold.
	Although it wasn't meant to be, it can be eaten cold.
	Just tastes a little different.
	Well, essentially, your main, in the USA, the main retort food that people are familiar with is MREs.
	Military MREs.
	Stands for Meals Ready to Eat.
	Okay?
	Now, MREs have some good points.
	Okay, they, you know, it's regular old food, cooked up in a package, it's already been sealed in the package, then it's cooked, it's got its natural juices in there, and because it's sealed before it's cooked, Theoretically the germs and whatnot can't propagate it in a manufacturing process like it could in a standard packaged food like on the grocery shelf where it's cooked, prepared, then it's handled and moved and touched and packaged later.
	This stuff is sealed, then cooked.
	But there's also some downsides to retort food.
	Okay?
	One is because it It's actual food.
	Actual ham, eggs, whatever.
	Cooked, sealed, and its own juices.
	It has a lot of restrictions on its temperature range for storage.
	Okay?
	Now, one of the biggest downsides of this food is heat.
	Heat will destroy this food.
	It does not last very long at all.
	Okay?
	Now the reason this is, is because it essentially breaks down the food and can cause germ growth or spoilage or complete basically it degrades all the mineral and vitamin content in the food makes a yucky mush which you really don't when looking at it don't want to eat at all so it causes things like food fatigue no nutrition or just outright spoilage okay I have a chart here this chart was developed by the Natick Laboratories that's the army proving grounds for this food essentially it's like Aberdeen proving grounds for weapons
	MADEX Laboratories from the U.S.
	Army and for the whole Department of Defense tested MREs.
	And I have a chart here that gives the temperature of storage and how many months it lasts.
	For example, if you have your MREs 120 degrees, which that may sound real high but it isn't if it's in the trunk of your car or in a storage shed or you know you have your metal tool shed out back and you have a few case MREs out there.
	One month.
	One month, degradation of vitamins and minerals turned into mushers and led to spoilage.
	Okay?
	One month.
	That's all they got out of it.
	120 degrees.
	Let's say we go down to a more practical temperature for most people.
	If you store your food just in the average spot, you know, a closet or whatever, it's going to get 70s or 80s, okay?
	At least, in the high parts of the season.
	Because it's a confined space, there's no air movement, you know, there's just no cooling effect there.
	And these aren't moving around, you know, like your car is driving, cooling the radiator.
	If you're looking at 78 degrees, the best, the best you can find, this is out of the Nanak Laboratories, is 100 months, okay?
	That's not that long, okay?
	Now, you take this mainstay food, one of its best points, it has a temperature range of negative 30 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit, okay?
	That's a huge temperature range, okay, for storage.
	That means essentially that you can leave it in the trunk of your car, up in your attic, closet, wherever, Excuse me folks, I made a mistake.
	It's negative 40.
	Negative 40 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
	These are all Fahrenheit temperatures.
	The nice thing about this is that anything in that range, doesn't matter how you treat it, I don't know how you're going to get it above 300 degrees once you do it intentionally, five years shelf life.
	Okay?
	Five years.
	Another thing about it too is because MREs are recourt foods, they're natural foods, as far as regular eggs, regular ham, regular chicken, and their own juices.
	If it gets to freezing point, 32 degrees, you've got a block of ice.
	If you plan on chewing on ice all day, that's fine, but it's not very good.
	It's going to be very hard to do.
	This stuff at negative 40, still, just boom, pop it out and eat it.
	Because the moisture content is way down there, but because of the composition of it, it's non-thirst provoking.
	Okay?
	And that's really because the medium it's put in, and the vitamins and minerals and the balance are in, That's all it comes down to.
	It doesn't make you thirsty.
	It's not like eating sawdust or chewing on dirt.
	Okay?
	It's not like some of these so-called survival foods that you hear about or read about.
	This stuff isn't like that, okay?
	So that's something you need to think about.
	If you've had a bunch of food stored up somewhere, like MREs, it's been stored up in your storage shed, your garage, you're hitting 110, 120 degrees, well, Okay, you got one month of life and basically if you haven't rotated your stock or haven't been using it and used it all up, you've invested a lot of money in things that may not be safe and quite frankly can be dangerous to your health.
	Okay?
	Because you will have bacterial growth in some of the mills.
	Mainstay does not do that.
	There's no juices in it.
	So you don't have to worry about that.
	Oh, I got a question.
	Mm-hmm.
	When you say negative 40 degrees, you mean minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit?
	Yeah.
	Does that mean that if it gets colder than that, that it's no good anymore?
	No.
	What does it mean?
	All that means is that at negative 40, you can pop it out of the package, eat it, and it's not a solid block of ice.
	Can you do that with MREs?
	No.
	Can you do that with anything else?
	No.
	Because they're all packed in water or juices.
	Wow.
	So, if you plan on chewing on ice cubes, I guess If you need an MRI at negative 40, I wouldn't suggest it.
	It's probably going to break your teeth or something like that.
	Oh, look at the tape.
	That's the only question I had.
	I'll do that.
	Okay, cool.
	Hold up folks, we're going to flip the tape over.
	It's about time for us.
	We can start again over.
	OK, the tape has slipped.
	OK, Bill's going to take over for a while here.
	I've got some stuff I've got to go look at.
	All righty.
	Bill's getting his headphones.
	I've got a few things I've got to go take care of.
	And then when we're back, we're going to cover some more subjects tonight.
	Remember, the call-in time, once we announce it, if you have any questions about this stuff, feel free to call in once we announce it.
	It's 520-333-4578 and if we have the ability to answer these questions, we'll do it.
	Okay.
	How'd the time go?
	What?
	Fast?
	Slow?
	Fast?
	Fast.
	Yeah, real fast, huh?
	It's only 648 and there's a long time to go.
	Bill is learning a lot of things tonight, folks, and he'll love it.
	The great thing about all of these products that we have chosen to offer our listening audience is that they're the very best.
	Just like we promised you.
	And just like we promised you, they're always going to be at the most economical, lowest price that we can possibly get them for, so that we can pass it on to you.
	For those of you who have inquired over the years, and I know that there have been a lot of you, especially those of you who are blind.
	I forget the politically correct way to say that.
	What is it?
	Visually challenged.
	I hate all this namby-pamby crap.
	I really got to tell you, I just hate it.
	For those of you who are blind and have been inquiring, and some of you have been loyal listeners for many years, and good friends also, about putting the book on tape.
	It was put on tape at several of the audio libraries that cater particularly to people who cannot read or who cannot see.
	And so it has been available at some of those places for quite some time.
	And I don't know the name of them or the address or where they're at.
	You all know those things because they're for you.
	But we finally, I didn't, we didn't, audio literature called me and wanted to publish Behold a
	Pale Horse on their alternative audio label. It's actually audio literature on their alternative
	audio label. So I took three days and went to San Francisco and spent a couple of days in the
	studio.
	That was an interesting experience, folks, because we did it like people make movies.
	You know, you have a scene, you say three sentences and they check it to make sure everything sounds right and then you do a few more sentences or maybe a paragraph or a page and then they put it all together and it becomes a book.
	Well, Behold a Pale Horse is a long book.
	I mean, it's over 500 pages, and it is extremely intense in the information and documentation that's provided.
	So, we were not able to, they were not able to put the whole book on tape.
	It came out to three hours, and there is ten minutes of new material.
	In an interview that they did with me at the end.
	It's read by me and it is certainly abridged from the original printed edition.
	So, Doyle will get into that and talk about it a little bit later.
	We are having a great time doing this three hour night broadcast.
	I know some of you are sitting there scratching your heads wondering where I've been for the last 47 minutes or so.
	What we're doing tonight is giving Doyle an opportunity to learn how to do all of these things.
	You see, if anything ever happens to me, somebody's going to have to carry on this work.
	And we're making sure that Veritas will carry on.
	The Hour of the Time will carry on.
	Nothing's going to change in this fight for freedom.
	Nobody is indispensable.
	And we're just making sure that everything can carry on as if nothing even happened, if anything.
	Heaven forbid, happens to me or Annie or any of the children.
	Because I've got to tell you, if anything happened to the children, that would certainly affect me quite a bit.
	But it wouldn't stop me.
	It wouldn't pull me out of the fight, folks.
	It would just make me more determined.
	So anyway, Doyle hooked up with the radio station and made the patch through.
	He got us on the air and did all of the stuff.
	He's doing the show tonight.
	That's how you learn.
	Be patient because he's going to make some mistakes just like I made mistakes when I began.
	Alan Wiener made mistakes.
	Rush Limbaugh made mistakes.
	Everybody, whoever starts something for the first time is going to make some mistakes.
	I think he's done an excellent job for the first 45 minutes of the broadcast.
	And so as not to take away from his learning experience, here's Doyle!
	I don't know why I'm whispering.
	That microphone picks up everything.
	All right.
	All right.
	I learned one thing.
	Do not drink coffee when you're talking on the air.
	Okay.
	Um, I've had a lot of inquiries about food storage in general.
	Okay.
	From people in letters or phone calls.
	Uh, I like to cover some of the general things about food storage.
	Okay.
	There are essentially just a handful of types of food that is meant for long-term storage.
	These include such things as reforked food, which we already covered, dehydrated, freeze-dried, and your grains.
	Your grains and legumes, you know, your beans and wheat and barley and oats and whatnot.
	Okay?
	And then in those types of dehydrated foods you'll have essentially two categories nitro pack which is nitrogen packed to displace the oxygen and well actually there's three.
	There's vacuum packed, nitrogen packed and just carbon dioxide which is a one method where they just pump carbon monoxide into the package because it's heavier than air they put the dispensing tube in the bottom it displaces the oxygen they fill it as far as the three types your best type As far as mass quantity bulk food storage is nitrogen packed.
	The reason for this is because the nitrogen is so heavy it displaces the air and at the same time nitrogen does not allow For hardly any bacterial growth.
	I used to work at a major food manufacturer.
	And we packaged all our stuff in nitrogen.
	Whether it be bulk or retail size packages.
	We packaged it in nitrogen.
	That dysplasia oxygen did not allow for bacterial growth.
	Because that can happen any time.
	You're buying food essentially from someone else.
	Okay?
	Now when you do this, you're always taking a chance.
	People touch it, they move it, if they do stuff the correct way all the time, and they're never tired, had all their breaks, they've had a happy day, and they're probably wearing their gloves and all that, but if the machine's getting ahead of them, and they're running back from break, and they grab something to catch up, and don't have their gloves on, well Actually, that's quite commonplace.
	I used to see it all the time.
	Okay, I will not mention I used to work for it was a major food manufacturer though.
	Okay, so I understand these what's called um, I Can't remember what's called this quality chain management system is a big fancy term.
	It's just assuring that all the safe practices are followed.
	Okay, so Of these different categories are freeze-dried, dehydrated, your grains and legumes.
	And there's one more category I'd like to add to.
	It is a food.
	It's usually not considered in food storage except for as like a kind of a backup item.
	But it's actually a really good item for day to day use.
	And that's sprouting.
	Sprouting seed mixes.
	Sprouting is an excellent source of vitamins and minerals.
	It's really healthy.
	It's inexpensive.
	It's last.
	It's non-hybrid, which means you can sprout and sprout and sprout from the same seeds.
	You know, you don't have to, uh, your common seeds that you buy from a big chain store, corn, whatever it might be, okay?
	Anything like that.
	Alfalfa, it's a one-time shot.
	It's a hybrid seed.
	They, they hybrid it through genetic engineering to get the biggest Potential crop for commercial farming is possible.
	But the result is, it does not propagate its own seeds.
	Okay?
	It cannot put out seeds at the end of the season, which consistently regrow crops the next season.
	Okay?
	That's something you got to think about.
	If you need to harvest your food, and this is just a situation here.
	There's a collapse of the economy.
	We're in a depressionary mode again.
	i.e.
	like we did in the 20s.
	People back then created all sorts of stuff.
	That's where the Victory Garden really was first created.
	It was named Victory Garden in World War II to kind of rally the people behind the cause.
	It essentially was people needed to feed their families.
	So they had gardens wherever they could fit them.
	Rooftops, windowsills, whatever, you know.
	And by the side of the house, get rid of the walkways, throw in a garden.
	One thing they had back then, an advantage over us, is that the seeds were natural.
	When they planted them, at the end of the season, they could let a few of the plants go to seed.
	The easiest to imagine is your large onions, you just keep letting them grow, they get big long green stalks, 2-3 foot tall, and they get this big beautiful white blossom at the top.
	Kind of like a large sized baby grass flower.
	That's the seeds.
	You just shake them off into a jar, throw them in a cool dark place like a garage, a cellar, a closet.
	Don't let them get a lot of moisture or sunlight and next year you throw them on the ground and they regrow.
	Okay?
	Nowadays you've got to deal with high breeding.
	So if you're going to get into this type of thing, growing your own food, sprouting your own food, you need to watch.
	You need to buy non-hybrid seeds.
	Okay?
	This is simply for preservation of your investment.
	Your family, your food, your garden, because you may not be able to run down to Walmart the next year and buy more seeds in a little packet for $1.89.
	That may be all you got, so they need to last.
	Okay?
	One of the other things about sprouting your own seeds, and I mean sprouting also pure sprouts, when I say pure sprouts, that's kind of a term I made up.
	I don't know the proper term, but there is one.
	Like bean sprouts, alfalfa, and what not.
	Very good source of vitamins and minerals.
	Okay, let me stop here and give the station a notification.
	This is WBCQ, Monticello, Maine, USA.
	The planet.
	There you go, Alan.
	Okay.
	Now, sprouts are incredibly healthy.
	And one thing about sprouting is it takes up very little space, It's something you can use on a daily basis.
	You can use it in your salads, on your sandwiches.
	You can use it in all sorts of stuff.
	Dips.
	It's really good stuff.
	It doesn't take up any space, any time really, once you've established it.
	And if you don't know how to sprout, there's a lot of good books out there.
	You can find them in your library.
	You can buy sprouting kits from your nurseries, your health food stores, or you can build your own.
	Now I'm going to really quickly cover how to build a sprouting kit.
	It's really simple.
	Low maintenance.
	Built when we were in 4th grade in school.
	We had the sprout seeds.
	It works.
	Really easy.
	Build little wooden frames.
	Squares just like the frame of the picture.
	Cover them in cheesecloth.
	Pull it tight.
	Staple it.
	And make these little trays of flats.
	Spaced apart a few inches.
	And a stack.
	Upright stack.
	Imagine like a dehydrating machine.
	Where you've got trays that are stacked up on top of each other with some space between them.
	You take your seeds, your alfalfa, your germaine, some people do, and maybe just pure bean sprouts even.
	You take these seeds, you uh, soybean, oh let me cover, let me cover the seven major beans first, okay?
	Seven major sprouts so everybody understands.
	I usually always say alfalfa or whatever, but the sprouts that grow the easiest.
	Lentils, mung, whole barley, spelt, alfalfa, soybean.
	Those are the easiest things to grow.
	Really simple.
	Very healthy.
	Use on a daily basis.
	And when you start using these things, you're going to see a drastic change in your health.
	You're going to have a faster metabolism.
	You're going to feel more awake.
	You're going to feel better.
	These are natural foods.
	They don't pick up the You know the nasties that are in the soil down where you live people dump chemicals and they spray with nitrogen and liquid ammonia like where I'm from spray with liquid ammonia every day and inject nitrogen in the ground to get the crop bigger quicker so you can grow three crops in a season instead of one but you pay for it in the long run because there's a lot of diseases that get passed on and a lot of mineral deficiencies because of it now
	Back to the framework.
	When you build your sprouter, you build this framework covered with cheesecloth.
	It's very simple.
	I'm talking just little like one-by-one wood like you use in arts and crafts or woodshop and whatnot.
	Build a frame, cover with cheesecloth.
	The reason the cheesecloth is it's like an osmosis cloth.
	permeable for water and air it can breathe it won't mildew water and air can pass freely through it which allows these sprouts to grow and drain and not mildew that's a big problem with sprouting they're mildew and rot and then you have nothing once you have your frames built let's say you just build one you take your alfalfa sprouts or whatever you want to grow just take the seeds Make some in a bowl of water.
	Make kind of a thick slurry.
	When I say that, like a mud, like a kid's mud pie, a concrete mixture, you know, kind of a thick slurry.
	And just spread them with a rubber spatula, like a cake mixing spatula, all over the cheesecloth.
	Okay?
	These are wet.
	Now each day, you'll water these in the morning and night.
	I've done this.
	It works.
	Okay?
	When you water these, the water passes.
	You just pour the water right over it through a colander.
	Or a window screen, something to break up.
	Diffuse the water so you don't try to drill a hole through your sprouts.
	Don't spread them all over.
	Diffuse the water.
	Kind of like a gentle rain on them.
	The nice thing about this is that you can collect the water at the bottom and it's a very healthy drink.
	It's very enriched with the vitamins and minerals from the sprouts.
	Or, you take that water you collect at the bottom in a pie pan, cake pan, whatever.
	A bucket, wherever you're at and save it and you can water again with it.
	It's amazing.
	It's like you get to keep reusing your water.
	Keep reusing it.
	It doesn't take a high volume water grow.
	You can drink it.
	You can use it for, actually you can use it for a vegetable base for soup.
	I've seen that done.
	I've tasted it.
	It's good.
	Especially like a vegetable noodle type rice soup, turkey rice soup or something.
	Excellent base.
	Okay.
	When they start sprouting, You're going to see all these little teeny, essentially white little stems with a little green puff at the top.
	It's like two little green leaves trying to split apart.
	And you're going to keep watering these things morning and night.
	Morning and night.
	Keep them in a Semi-shaded spot.
	That's why if you want to do this indoor, the kitchen works well.
	A window that faces the sun only part of the day.
	You don't want to take like a north-facing or south-facing window that's going to get sun all day because you're going to dry them out.
	You also don't want to do them in a closet because they're just never going to dry and they're going to get mildew.
	You've got to watch out for the two extremes.
	Before you know it, the stuff's going to grow like weeds.
	Okay?
	It's going to sprout up like grass, like weeds, and it's going to be growing like crazy, especially like alfalfa sprouts or something.
	It just really goes nuts.
	Soybean does this also.
	Actually, so does mung bean.
	When you want to eat them, yank them right off the cheesecloth.
	They don't really stick or nothing.
	They're just kind of growing there.
	I don't know how to describe it.
	They're just kind of floating there growing.
	You can cut them off or just yank them off.
	You don't need to wash them because you haven't been spraying with pesticides, hopefully, especially indoors.
	They've only been watered, there's no dirt on them.
	And, just use them.
	Okay?
	Good stuff.
	It'll make your sandwiches better.
	It'll make your health better.
	They're excellent in salads, soups, and you're going to get some enjoyment out of it because, believe it or not, even if you don't like growing things or whatnot, taking care of something and seeing the product, the product of your work, you're all done, you started with nothing, and you all of a sudden have all this food.
	It makes you feel good.
	I'm going to describe it here.
	It just makes you feel good.
	Okay?
	Now that we've gone from that, I'd like to cover some of the simple grains that are often used for food storage.
	Some of these are, well I'm going to cover the three Most common grains used for food storage.
	These are hard red wheat, golden 86 wheat, and baker's grade white wheat.
	Your hard red wheat is a dark wheat That's where you get the very dark, dense breads from.
	Your Golden 86 is a much lighter wheat, much fluffier formula when you cook with it, when you use it for flour.
	Turn it into flour, I should say, and use it in cooking, much fluffier.
	And your baker's grade white wheat is just like tweaking the Golden 86 wheat.
	It's just a slight different type.
	One thing I want to warn people about though, is if you have this wheat at home, And you think that you're just going to jump into eating it raw and start making your own flour and cooking your own bread and go from a rainbow off-the-shelf bread and McDonald's to this stuff overnight.
	You're going to have a serious problem in the next couple days.
	Okay?
	Your digestive system is essentially going to shut down because most people are not used to, today, are not used to natural foods.
	So you're going to have some problems in the stomach area.
	Okay?
	Everybody knows what I mean.
	You're going to get stocked up, you're going to get stomach aches, you're going to feel like you've got a big old ball in your stomach.
	It's not fun.
	If you want to integrate these into your diet, you need to do it slowly.
	Get used to it.
	Get your body, your metabolism, your digestive system used to it.
	At that point, use them all you want.
	Okay?
	What I'd like to do is cover some of these grains and legumes, beans, and some of their vitamin content.
	People would be really surprised about the vitamin contents, what to use them for.
	I'll give you a word of warning right now.
	When I first got into this stuff a few years ago, I made me a big ole healthy loaf of bread out of pure hard red wheat.
	That stuff was nice and dark, looked all cool.
	It was natural.
	I did all this work.
	10 hours, it seems like, to cook this loaf of bread.
	That was a few years ago.
	And when I ate it, I felt like I was eating a block of concrete.
	It was very dense.
	Very dense.
	Okay, it's not what essentially the American diet is used to.
	Okay?
	So when you use this stuff for cooking, mix it.
	Mix some golden 86 and some baker's grade white wheat, some hard red wheat.
	You mix it up, get a nice Nice beige color and you'll end up with a lighter bread, a fluffier bread.
	It won't feel like you ate a boat anchor for lunch.
	And you won't have any other digestive problems when you're done.
	Okay?
	Now one thing about the storage of these foods.
	What's really nice about the grains and beans is that as far as nutritional value,
	the storage life is basically indefinite if it's stored properly.
	And when I say that, stored properly, I mean in the nutritional factor, I mean degradation
	in the vitamin and mineral content is nil no matter how long you store it.
	And stored properly, I mean airtight, watertight, not waterproof.
	There's no such thing as waterproof.
	Don't let anybody sell you a waterproof container.
	It is impossible.
	But a good storage container like a very heavy made five gallon plastic pail with a good
	liner that we stored in a metalized bag, a foil looking bag, packed in nitrogen, sealed
	up with a heat process on the bag and put inside a bucket.
	It's covered with a snap-on lid.
	It essentially allows no sun or air to pass through it.
	It doesn't allow pests and earwigs and mice and everything else to eat on it.
	Essentially it's indefinite.
	They find grain and clay vases from ancient civilizations at some sites.
	In Egypt they found barley type mixtures and old clay vessels.
	They claim they were making beer.
	I don't know.
	It's probably a joke, but as far as I'm concerned, but they found this stuff and it's still actually a lot of vitamin and mineral content.
	It's quite amazing.
	Okay.
	Now, as far as nutritional analysis comparison, I have to give you a few numbers here for the grains and beans.
	So that's usually where people start.
	They get into food storage.
	They start with the grains and beans.
	They're most accessible.
	They're the least expensive.
	One thing about it, though, is just remember this.
	People will tell you, well, there's all sorts of cultures that live off rice and beans their whole life.
	Well, they're used to it.
	They've been living off rice and beans since the day they were born.
	They weren't eating McDonald's.
	They weren't eating steak and baked potatoes most of their life.
	They're not 40 years old when they start this stuff.
	Okay?
	Age has nothing to do with it.
	It's a simple matter of what your body is used to.
	Okay?
	Look for variety.
	But most people start out with grain and beans.
	So I'm going to give you some nutritional comparisons.
	You're simple like wheat.
	You know your protein is 14.
	That's a high level protein.
	Beat by only one type of wheat grain that I know of.
	And that's Quinoa.
	Which is a 16 point something.
	I can't remember exactly.
	But essentially your wheat for protein is the highest amount of protein.
	It's got a very low level of fat around the 2's.
	Much lower than oats, millet, buckwheat.
	Corn and rye will beat wheat for fat.
	But corn and rye get quite boring.
	Hard kernel corn.
	Imagine trying to chew on popcorn.
	If you ever try to grind popcorn in a grinder, by hand especially, it's very hard.
	And corn flour is kind of hard to deal with.
	Carbohydrates.
	A good level of carbohydrates in wheat.
	Wheat has around 70% carbohydrates.
	These are percentages I'm giving you.
	I'm sorry I didn't say that at the beginning.
	Protein about 14%.
	Fat only about 2%.
	Carbohydrates about 70%.
	Fiber is mediocre.
	You'd think it'd have a lot of fiber because it's a grain.
	That's not how it works.
	And ash, a very low point of ash.
	Now that's got its good and bads.
	Okay?
	A high ash content is said to avoid such intestinal pests like tapeworms and whatnot, but you can't eat every day worrying about getting tapeworms, okay?
	If you got tapeworms or something really nasty like this, P.O.W.s in the Korean War learned that they hate charcoal out of the fires.
	They got rid of it.
	You can't plan your daily diet around it.
	So this thing about ash content I've heard people talk about in some books or heard them talk about.
	That's a joke.
	Okay?
	As far as I'm concerned.
	But it's got a very low ash content.
	Okay?
	Now there's a special grain I'd like to talk about.
	It's an alternative to wheat.
	It's called Quinoa.
	That's the best I can pronounce it.
	Okay, if you know the proper pronunciation, call me and let me know, write me, whatever.
	Spell it out.
	Clevis Quinoa.
	It's Q-U-I-N-O-A.
	This is some neat stuff.
	It's essentially South American.
	It's a grain.
	It's been cultivated in the Andes.
	Meant for like a high arid, a high elevation arid type environment.
	It's been a mainstay for the Well for the South American culture since 3000 B.C.
	I've seen some sources say.
	What's amazing about Quinoa is it's storage life, it's mineral content, it's proteins, fats, carbohydrates.
	This is a neat, a really neat grain, okay?
	It beats all the other storage as far as grains and legumes.
	It has it's all topped on protein.
	Has a good level of fat.
	Now I said wheat was low, which is good.
	That is good to some certain extent.
	But fat is good, especially when you're on a high stress level.
	You want a mediocre level.
	You don't want to be running 10-15% fat in your diet.
	You also don't want to be running half a percent.
	You just will not get enough to get your energy and you're going to feel like a slug all day.
	Quinoa's got a good mediocre level.
	Incredible amount of carbohydrates.
	Fiber at a good level.
	You want to look for around a 5.
	The 5% so you don't want to run change, you don't want to run ones.
	It's just a dietary thing.
	It's got a good level of ash.
	Quinoa has a 15-20 year shelf life when it's packed and it can be cooked just like rice.
	That's what's amazing.
	It can be cooked like rice, add to baked goods, eaten raw.
	You can take wheat or quinoa, either one.
	Take them, throw them in a frying pan with a little butter.
	Sprinkle some sugar on them.
	Just kind of shake them around like you're trying to pop popcorn.
	Good snacks.
	Good stuff.
	Okay?
	The quinoa can be grown almost anywhere.
	It's like growing turnips.
	They just like to grow.
	Okay?
	It grows like a weed.
	It's amazing stuff.
	Okay?
	One thing I'd also like to cover in the food storage area is your powdered foods.
	Let's say powdered milk, powdered cheese, powdered butter.
	These things have a low storage life.
	So if you're going to have these types of items, powdered milk, powdered butter, powdered cheese, these types of things, essentially dairy derived foods that are powdered, They have a very low shelf life.
	Okay?
	I've seen figures anywhere from 3 to 5 years.
	There are so many sources for this.
	It's just incredible.
	Anywhere from nutritional labs, government laboratories, USDA, independent researchers, and the actual food packages themselves.
	They'll give you all these figures, but 3 to 5 years seems to be the range.
	Okay?
	So you need to make sure that if you have these things that are essentially dairy Dairy derived foods that are powdered and then packaged in a can, a number 10 can essentially, which is like a 1 gallon sized can, like a big can of coffee.
	You need to rotate these foods.
	Don't throw a can of powdered milk or something underneath your house and think 10 years later you're going to eat it.
	You'll mix it with water and you're going to have white water and it's going to be essentially as healthy as whitewash for your house.
	I want to cover a couple of the other areas here.
	Freeze-dried and dehydrated foods.
	Freeze-dried has got some definite advantages.
	Just pop it in a canteen and it retains its shape and form and texture very well.
	You can throw this stuff in water, eat it later, and if it's cold you can throw a dehydrated, excuse me, freeze-dried, for instance, strawberries or something in water and ten minutes later they look like sliced strawberries.
	And if you've got reddish, pinkish juice in there and they taste sweet and everything.
	Dehydrated foods work the same.
	Okay?
	But there's There's a couple of downfalls to each of them.
	Freeze-dried foods are more susceptible to damage.
	Now when I say that, I mean physical damage.
	Freeze-dried foods, it's jostled a lot, moved to rot, shaken, dropped, thrown in the trunk of a car, whatever, tend to turn into powder.
	So we'll take the strawberry, I gave earlier the example of freeze-dried strawberries.
	They're quite popular to have freeze-dried fruits and vegetables.
	If you put this stuff in the trunk of your car and drive to work every day and do your normal errands and stuff and pop this stuff open a few weeks later, that's all it takes a few weeks, you're going to have a pink powder.
	You're going to end up with this like, I don't know, pink milkshake thing.
	Okay?
	That is the downside to freeze-dry.
	The upside of it is, take less water to retain its form, or to regain its form and its texture
	and taste than pure dehydrated foods.
	Freeze dried foods however are much more expensive.
	They are easier to prepare, take a little less water, look more like straight out food
	when you're done, but they're more expensive because of the preparation cost, the manufacturing
	cost of turning a food, a straight crop food or a meat or whatever it might be into a freeze
	dried product is more expensive in the manufacturing process, okay?
	Thank you.
	So if you need a, if you're looking for The most thing for your butt, go with dehydrated foods.
	Look for your grains, your beans.
	I often say legumes, but don't stick just to grains and beans.
	I've seen people that stock up on honey because honey is a really neat substance.
	It's got an indefinite, essentially, unless you just abuse it.
	Abuse it.
	Nutritional shelf life and storage life is essentially Indefinite pure natural honey even if it gets crystallized you just put it in a hot water bath I take the container drop it in a bigger pan or a bucket of hot water whatever it just liquefies again honey can be used as sweetened foods drinks used in place of processed sugar
	When I bake natural bread, I don't use sugar.
	I grind the wheat, I use sea salt, and I use honey.
	This is an example.
	I do not use sugar.
	But I've seen people think they're going to buy a ton of red wheat, a ton of pinot beans, about 200 pounds of honey, which isn't that many buckets actually.
	Honey is like carrying mercury around in a bucket.
	really dense and things are going to live off of it and then their normal diet is
	McDonald's and Swanson's hungry man meal or whatever in the microwave. It ain't
	going to happen. Okay, they're going to make themselves sick. So think about that. You
	don't want to get into food deprivation, especially at a time when you're
	probably under a lot of stress anyway and you may have injuries.
	Your loved ones may have injuries.
	You're worried about the future.
	Don't add another complication there, okay?
	Don't go starving yourself because the type of diet you picked.
	You need a variety, okay?
	So we've covered retort foods, dehydrated foods, freeze-dried foods, grains and beans, your dairy products that have been canned, dried.
	I'm talking about storage now.
	There's essentially two things you have to look for, shape and size.
	Most of your grains Like your wheats, your legumes, tenno beans, what not, come in your five gallon buckets.
	Mmm, least expensive, they don't rust.
	Nice points about them, right?
	They're plastic, they don't rust, they're very cheap, the container itself is lightweight, they pretty much keep pests away.
	I have seen buckets that have been chewed through by mice and you know filled mice,
	rats, they will chew through that if they can smell it.
	Like a little lid gets slightly cockeyed, if they can smell the food they're going to
	get in there.
	But actually they allow because you have to have a lid that snaps on it so you can get
	on and off and it's made out of plastic so it's flexible.
	They actually do allow a minor amount of air and water to get through.
	They're very hard to open.
	There's nice little wrenches that make that much simpler to pop off the lid of a five-gallon bucket.
	These plastic buckets are really easy.
	They make it where you don't destroy the lid.
	Don't use a screwdriver unless you have to.
	If you use a big old giant pry bar like a mechanic screwdriver to pop these things open, You get about two uses out of a lid.
	You're going to punch holes in it, dent it, tear it.
	Don't use it unless you really have to.
	Spend the four dollars.
	Get the bucket lid opener.
	You can buy them at paint shops, hardware stores.
	Look in the painting section.
	They're usually red plastic.
	I don't know why.
	It seems like everyone I've ever seen is red.
	They're just a plastic thing, they have a little hook that grabs the bottom lip, and a little arm that sticks out and kind of touches the center of the lid, and you just pull up on it, pops it off, keeps it in good shape.
	Okay?
	Another bad thing about the plastic buckets is the stacking height.
	Because of the size, they hold a lot of weight.
	And they are plastic, so they're flexible.
	You stack these containers up too high, they make the lower ones start to want to swell and bend outward, kind of get fat.
	Break seals, they tip over.
	If you have a spillage, you just lost all the work and the money you put into it.
	And if the bottom one pops open, you may not even notice it, and you get down to that bottom bucket, and you think you're going to eat, and you get it open, and everything's rotten.
	Okay?
	One of the bad points.
	But, some of the pros are it's lightweight, They don't rust and they're very inexpensive to package stuff in.
	The other very common packaging medium is number 10 metal cans.
	That's like your big can of coffee, like a gallon size or roughly.
	Very easy to handle.
	They don't hold as much stuff so they're lighter weight.
	You can pass them around, you can put them on Your average shelf.
	They're not going to break it.
	I wouldn't take the average house today and try to put a five gallon bucket full of beans on the kitchen shelf.
	It will probably break the shelf because stuff just doesn't seem to be made as well as it used to be.
	Remember tin cans don't do that.
	They're lighter, easier to move, quicker to move.
	They're really good for dehydrated things such as vegetables, fruits, because Those type of items, they expand so greatly when you add the water to them.
	It's just amazing.
	You take a dehydrated banana, strawberries, anything like that.
	You add some water to it.
	This stuff just blows up like a balloon.
	I mean, it sucks up every bit of water.
	So you get a lot of volume of finished product out of a little bit of dried product.
	So if you had a 5 gallon bucket of your bananas dehydrated, your dehydrated strawberries,
	I always hit those a lot because those are very popular and almost anybody likes them
	and they go with a lot of recipes.
	And apple slices, apple chips as some call them.
	Little slices of apples, sliced very thin like banana chips.
	They're usually broken up.
	You're not going to see a nice apple-shaped slice.
	You know, like a potato chip or something, all perfectly uniform.
	So they're often called apple chips.
	The reason you like the smaller containers is because they do fill up so much, you use very little bit out of the storage source, i.e.
	the can.
	If you had a 5-gallon bucket of these things, by the time you tried to use it all, half of it would be rotten.
	Because once you open it, your storage life goes down the mountain, okay?
	Because you're allowing air in there.
	You're opening it daily.
	Moisture.
	Possible pests.
	Bugs.
	Algae.
	Mold.
	Yeast.
	Spores.
	Okay?
	So you get the idea.
	Cans are really good because they stack very well.
	Okay?
	They stack very well.
	Because they're easier to stack.
	Especially when you have them in a box.
	You can put cans in a box they don't weigh too much and they stack very easily because now you have a nice square rectangular block and they stack really easy in a closet or wherever you might be putting them in a pantry kitchen shelf whatever And also, cans allow for you to vacuum pack.
	The reason you cannot vacuum pack in a plastic storage container is because if they tried to vacuum pack a plastic storage container, it would buckle in on itself, implode essentially, and you'd get no seal.
	Cans are rigid enough, they can put the product in the can in the vacuum chamber, full of vacuum, seal the lid, take it out, and the form of the can and the rigidity and strength of it is still there.
	Hey, what's up?
	Oh, I thought something was wrong.
	Okay.
	And, uh, so I've covered the two major packaging types, your major grains, your major types of food storage, as far as categories, freeze-dried, dehydrated, whatnot.
	I've covered how to use them.
	I've covered sprouting.
	If any of you have questions, you can call me or write us.
	The address is hour of the time, care of 101.1 FM.
	P.O.
	Box 940, Eager, E-A-G-A-R, Arizona, 85925.
	And if I've made some mistakes, point them out.
	I'm always glad to learn.
	Hey dude, you want to take a look for a minute?
	I need to go take some years off my life.
	Yeah, I need a cigarette.
	Anyway, people, Bill's going to take over now.
	He's giving me a slight break.
	And we'll be back in a few minutes.
	Okay.
	Now, you see, that's what happens when you smoke.
	You can't finish your job.
	I know.
	Okay, folks, in about one minute here, I've got to turn over the tape, so let me get that ready.
	I've been sitting out listening on shortwave in the yard watching the unbelievably beautiful sunset and the moon rising over the mountains in the distance.
	You have no idea how beautiful the state of Arizona is unless you've been here and spent a little time in the area where I live.
	It is truly God's country.
	Probably one of the most beautiful places on the face of this entire earth.
	Bar none.
	And I mean that sincerely.
	Where we live, we can drive about, oh, I'd say about ten minutes in any direction and be in a lake fishing.
	Or we can drive about 10 minutes to the west or to the south and be in a forest.
	A beautiful forest.
	About 20 minutes in the winter time we can be skiing at 10,000 feet.
	That's really it.
	Beautiful, beautiful country.
	I'm going to pause for just a second while I change the tape.

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